Filmmaking / Directing : Historically correct fabrics by Jeanine Bartelt

Jeanine Bartelt

Historically correct fabrics

Quick question concerning fabrics and historical costumes..how authentic are you able to get with the fabrics that are available today? Are there mills that make fabrics specifically for historically correct costumes? I can fudge for stage work but with HD in film where you can almost see how fabric has been woven, how does one compensate for the refined work of modern looms? Or is this even a factor in costuming for the HD camera as long as the overall look is authentic to the period? I've been costuming for the stage and am just getting into costuming for film and this is a question that has been nudging me so I'm looking forward to your input - thanks.

Karen Ruffles

Hi Jeanine Although we're not directly involved with fabrics, we know a lot of people who are. Just to give an example, one of them was responsible for the buttons on period costume in the recent version of Les Miserables. I know there are some mills and individual producers here in the UK who are still working by traditional methods and with traditional materials to produce accurate fabrics. Also, you may be able to find small producers on Etsy ( which is where we've met a lot of people in this field) we'd be happy to put you in touch with those that we know, if they match what you need, just let us know.

Jeanine Bartelt

Thank you for the information, Karen. I will have to begin my exploration soon and I'll certainly check out Etsy.

Marci Shapiro

If you are looking in the States, you can try the costume departments at some of the studios, they usually take possession of the remaining costumes and fabrics after a show has been released, (they usually own anything over a certain $ anyway) Also Western Costume has a great Fabric room.

Jeanine Bartelt

Thank you for the leads. I very much appreciate your input.

Tim Pickles

It very much depends what fabrics you are looking for, some just don't exist ant more of course but if you are looking for doeskins superfines and facecloth about the only supplier is Hainsworth of Yorkshire, a google search will bring them up. Certainly they are who I use for all my officer/gentleman productions.Though the standard has been dropped over the years they are still a pure wool loomed on old machines with a teasle face and will hold a raw edge which is so important in 18th and 19th century garments. Of course with shipping and customs (if you are not in the UK)" the price is going to be about $200 per yard for the goods but it is the right stuff.

Jeanine Bartelt

Hi Tim. Thank you for the information. I'm going to check out the supplier you suggested.

Tim Pickles

You are very welcome Jeanine, check out my imdb page, nearly all the hero stuff on there is made with Hainsworth wool, and of course with the correct backing it is takes embroidery beautifully.

Andre Hunt

I imagine Japan would be a source of some amazing silks. I remember reading about R. Crumb's attempts at researching clothing for his illustrated Book of Genesis. He finally decided to copy De Mille.

Tim Pickles

One of the problems with Japan and China is that they tend to do what they do, they are not very open to weaving specific period designs. Of course today there are not too many pictures that have the luxury of of time to look into fabrics and get it right, like the 2 years spent on the 1968 Charge of the Light Brigade to make sure costumes would photograph correctly on the film stock being used.

Jeanine Bartelt

How the fabric photographs is another great consideration, not just how it drapes. Lighting can also affect the overall look as it does on stage. Great input!

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